Synthetic colored gemstones are entering the jewelry supply chain as early as at the mine site. This consequences for the integrity of the colored gemstone industry is obvious, however there is also a consequence for the communities who rely on the gemstone trade in source countries. Without scientific equipment or knowledge and ability to detect synthetics the effects can lead to economic disruption, community harm by undermining economic ecosystems and market manipulation. How is this happening and how can source economies and the gemstone trade protect themselves.

This panel presents a groundbreaking opportunity for the Kimberley Process Civil Society Coalition and a leading natural diamond industry organization to engage in meaningful dialogue around their shared commitment to building a thriving natural diamond sector that benefits all source communities worldwide. Both organizations recognize a fundamental truth: a successful natural diamond industry must be one where communities receive substantial value from their natural resources, funding education, healthcare, infrastructure, and economic opportunities that create lasting prosperity. This moderated discussion acknowledges that both organizations have witnessed the need for continued evolution in industry practices, positioning their perspectives as complementary voices working toward the same goal: ensuring natural diamonds represent a positive force for communities and consumers alike. The panel will explore how transparent dialogue, collaborative problem-solving, and shared accountability can build a natural diamond industry that source communities, consumers, and industry stakeholders can be genuinely proud to support - creating a foundation for sustainable success that honors both the rarity of natural diamonds and the communities that bring them to the world.

For the first time, the jewelry industry must confront that silver, a material so often used, often comes from mines at the center of serious human rights and environmental justice struggles. Across the world—from the Xinka and Apache, resistance to silver mining in the United States and Guatemala, to Indigenous Zapotec and Huichol opposition in Mexico, to Quechua and Aymara fights in Peru and Bolivia, to Mapuche Tehuelche defiance in Argentina’s Patagonia, to the Batwa and other African groups, and Indigenous communities in the Philippines and Indonesia—mining has meant dispossession, contamination, and cultural loss. Silver from these contested regions circulates invisibly in global markets, leaving its impacts unaddressed by the jewelry sector until now.

This panel examines how the jewelry industry can address the growing demand for colored gemstones while ensuring equitable supply chains. We'll explore the current auction system's benefits and drawbacks, including how source countries lose potential revenue, artisanal miners face market access barriers, small-to-medium enterprise (SME) jewelers and gem dealers struggle to maintain access to quality gemstones, and opaque markets limit traceability throughout the supply chain. The popularity of auction systems continues to grow due to jewelry companies' high-capacity fulfillment needs and the limited supply of quality colored gemstones, creating competitive pressure that favors bulk purchasing and established players. Colored gemstone perspectives from mine to market will explore how to scale up direct supplies from source countries and how jewelers and jewelry companies can support this. This panel will bring forth a discussion on how to move forward to balance these competing demands and create more equitable supply chains that serve all industry participants.

New to the world of responsible jewelry? Curious but unsure where to start? This informal coaching session offers one-on-one conversations with experienced mentors from across the industry—designers, retailers, suppliers, NGOs, and more. It’s a judgment-free zone to ask the questions you might not feel comfortable voicing in a larger setting. Whether you're just getting started or looking to grow, this is your chance to sit down, connect, and get real answers from people who’ve been there.

Endangered species of animals, mammals and insects can be impacted by the jewelry industry in a myriad of ways. The Pink Dolphins in the Amazon have been found to suffer from mercury poisoning stemming from the processing of illegal gold that is proven to be in “recycled gold”. The Rhinos of Mozambique are victims of illicit gangs with convergence in the gemstones trade. The Monarch habitat in Mexico became unstable due to mining, until a ban on new mining was passed into law in 2023, leading to rising numbers in their population. Understanding the place and circumstance of where we source our materials and what effect this has on wildlife there is important for us to help save these vital species.

Mike Schiebach discusses how surfers, artisanal fisheries, scientist and indigenous communities are working together to regulate diamond mining and call for beach restoration. Protect the West Coast addresses the environmental degradation of the popular surfing coast through community action and policy change in the coast North of Cape Town South Africa. The organization has developed an important tool to alert communities to mining applications that they may not otherwise hear about, enabling prior consent. Moderator, Morgan Burger, brings her knowledge of Ocean Mining experience in fair and prior consent in mining to the conversation.

The move to mine, mine, mine in America will have an impact on the jewelry industry. If regulations are loosened, if mining begins in American National Parks and Monuments it could tarnish the jewelry industries reputation and funnel gold and silver into our products that are associated with controversial actions. But jewelry is a 85 billion dollar a year industry which holds some power to influence the agenda. The American metals panel will bring awareness to changes in legislature, environmental, wildlife and cultural heritage risks and indigenous rights as they unfold now in the US.

Rapidly changing landscape of regulations, tariffs and legal obligations for the jewelry industry require jewelers and jewelry business to know the latest legal requirements. Sara Yood will explain and detail what you need to know and how to apply that to your business.

The move to mine, mine, mine in America will have an impact on the jewelry industry. If regulations are loosened, if mining begins in American National Parks and Monuments it could tarnish the jewelry industries reputation and funnel gold and silver into our products that are associated with controversial actions. But jewelry is a 85 billion dollar a year industry which holds some power to influence the agenda. The American metals panel will bring awareness to changes in legislature, environmental, wildlife and cultural heritage risks and indigenous rights as they unfold now in the US

The students from universities and colleges across the US participate in the Ethical Metalsmiths Education Department initiatives. See how the next generation is shaping what the future of ethical jewelry is as they push the bundaires with their designs and and create with intention.

The visionary jewelry designers who have joined the Reciprocity collective create incredible jewelry with gold and silver that is both traced back to the women miners and mercury free. Reciprocity has been exhibiting a capsule collection during NYCJW for three years and has become a must see destination during the week due to its beautiful rain forest inspired decor and repertoire of some of the most notable international jewelry designers who participate in the show.